Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Food Warms Up The Memories

By Perry Washburn

Reprinted from the Des Moines Register

Tradition is a powerful motivator. Since moving to Iowa four years ago, I have loved the Iowa State Fair because it is so rich in tradition. You can walk the barns and the buildings and see that families who have been showing off their talents there for generations.

Likewise, I am a good cook in large part because my Indiana family made food a huge priority. My grandmothers both ran restaurants, and my aunts and uncles excelled in the kitchen. My mom's gravestone proudly proclaims "world class pie baker." My siblings are fabulous cooks.

So my cooking is a family tradition.

And nothing reminds me of my Midwestern foodie roots more than the bountiful harvests of fruits and vegetables. Take me to a farmers market, and my mind races with the memories of dishes and family gatherings gone by.

"These cucumbers and onions are great," my daughter said earlier this summer. They were tart, crunchy, fresh and delicious, tossed simply with some vinegar and a bit of sugar. But this dish is not one of my staples.

"Why did you make this?" she asked. Because, I told her, I saw the cucumbers and thought of my mom.

On the drive home from a daughter's softball practice last week, I found myself pulling over suddenly. My daughter thought I was nuts. But there in a yard was a table full of tomatoes and squash, a scale, a coffee can and some simple directions. I happily weighed a couple of the best-looking tomatoes you've ever seen, and put the money in the coffee can. I smiled at my good fortune. My wife and daughters, who love fresh tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil, were in for a treat!

This time of year reminds me of fall harvests of the past, where Mom would excitedly call me to the garden. The broccoli is ready! Or the carrots, the beets. And she taught me simple rules. When you have something fresh and at the peak of flavor, you can let it be the star of the meal. With high-quality ingredients, simple often is better.

Often a little steam or some sautéing with butter is all you need for carrots, beets, turnips, broccoli and squash to shine. Perhaps add one fresh herb, say some thyme. The freshness explodes in your mouth. With fresh-from-the-garden flavor, you don't need complicated cooking methods or layers of ingredients.

My grandfather and I used to love digging potatoes in one of two huge family gardens. We especially prized the little ones, which Grandma or Mom would gently boil or roast, then toss with butter and parsley.

Grandad has been gone 40 years this summer. But a steaming bowl of fresh potatoes brings the tastes and memories flooding back. Pass the potatoes, please?

Perry's 2&1 rub

2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon paprika

Here is a quick way to make your own rub. This is my theory: put in 2 teaspoons of the spices that should be in every rub. For me, those are salt, sugar and garlic powder. Then pick three of your favorites and add one teaspoon each of those. Most commercial rubs are salt heavy. If even this one has too much, move up the onion powder to the 2 teaspoon spot, and move the salt down to 1 teaspoon. Be creative on the 1 teaspoon side: Add dried herbs like thyme and basil, pepper or chilis, and/or spices with a zing like ginger, cinnamon, curry powder, etc. Have fun!

Perry's Cabbage and Chops

4 pork chops
4 tablespoons Perry's 2&1 Rub
1-2 tablespoons oil
1 small head cabbage (1.5 pounds) sliced thin
1 large onion, sliced
1 large tomato, diced
1 teaspoon oregano

Sprinkle rub onto pork chops and cover or place in a plastic bag. The longer you let the rub sit, the better it gets, although you can proceed immediately to the next step.

In a large skillet, heat the oil until hot. Over medium high heat, fry the pork chops until brown on the bottom and red juices are starting to come out the top. Turn, and brown the other side until done.

Take the pork chops out of the skillet and place on a heated platter and cover.

Add onions, cabbage, tomato and oregano to the skillet and cook, turning often, until the veggies are wilted. 8-10 minutes. (Some people like their cabbage just barely wilted, and bright green, and other like it cooked longer. Your choice.)

Put a heaping spoonful on each plate, and top with a chop.

Serves 4-6.

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